MYWAY项目6–中国黄色绉纱衬衫

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我知道今年春天我得吃点黄色的东西,it seemed like the freshest color in all the magazines and on the runways.And,several of the 必威app手机下载版sewists on the sewing blogs have been making cute yellow tops (check out,,网址:www.ericabunker.com/2008/04/ive-got-yellow-hear.html) When I saw this beautiful silk Crepe de Chine in a sunflower yellow,我抓住了它!!

对于这种设计,我被我最近看到的褶皱衬衫所启发,like this one from Phillip Lim:

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I didn't have any particular pleating arrangement in mind,so I chose a pattern with the shape I wanted and cut a piece of fabric long enough for the front piece and just started fooling around.I thought it would be easiest to pleat the fabric first and then cut the front pattern piece.I ended up with a 1″ pleat at the center front and 3,1/2″ pleats on either side.

I used Simplicity 3874,view B,因为我喜欢领口和连肩袖。I cut if off to blouse length,把前面的省道折叠起来,省去了帝国的弹性。

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Step 1,前片打褶:picture-090.jpg

我把褶缝在6英寸的下摆上。这样的话,这件衬衫就可以不打褶或不打褶了。

Step 2,创建一个新的正面图案块:picture-093.jpg

我拿了原来的纸样,把省道折叠起来(这就是为什么纸样看起来那么皱的原因)。Don't worry 必威官网betwayabout that,只需将图案放在织物上,并尽可能将其钉平即可)。我把图案块的中心前面放在我的中心褶的中间。我画了一条新的侧缝线,按照原来的模式,easing into the armhole.我画了新的下摆。

Step 3,completing the front pattern piece:图片-096JPG

After drawing the left side,I folded the fabric on the center front and cut the right side,沿着左侧的线条。

The back pattern piece only needed shortening,no other alterations.

Step 4,施工:我按照图案方向施工顶部,除了袖子和领口。

袖子:我剪了4个袖子,把它们衬起来,understitiching at the hem.这样就避免了袖子底部的窄边,这会给他们一个飘逸的外观。The raglan sleeve has a curved seam in the middle.Next time,我要把那条缝的形状弄得糊里糊涂的,因为我敢打赌,它可以改变,把袖子的下摆拉得更紧。It's a nice sleeve the way it is,but I would prefer it to be a little more fitted at the hem.

The neckline: after the sleeves were finished,我试了一下,把领口再剪得宽一点,deeper boat shape.

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新领口轮廓:picture-098.jpg

步骤5,finishing: I struggled with this.我知道我不想让领口露出来,也不想给褶皱任何支撑,I decided on a foldover bias trim.My plan was to make a bias strip,fold it in half,纵向地,按一下,然后缝到领口的反面。必威app手机下载版这给了足够的误差,仍然使一个不错的,甚至上斜线折叠在右边。

问题是,I didn't have enough fabric to cut the bias strip in one piece.So,I cut 2 pieces and proceeded to try to make the seams fall on each shoulder seam.好,I don't know if there is a computation for this,I tackled it by 必威app手机下载版sewing one seam in the bias strip and pinning this seam,matching at the shoulder,then pinning the remainder of the neckband until I reached the other shoulder seam.

在这一点上,because the seam on the bias strip would be a diagonal seam,I didn't know how to make the band exactly the right length.我尽我所能猜测,then 必威app手机下载版sewed the diagonal seam,但是,哎呀!我缝必威app手机下载版了一条人字缝,而不是一条直的。Of course,I'd cut off the excess,所以现在我的乐队太短了。我不得不重新切割斜边条的一边,以形成一个直的接缝和一个连续的带子。

我知道这条带子缝在领口上会有点伸长,我知道把领口拉进去一点也不坏,必威app手机下载版因为这样有助于防止领口在锁骨处裂开。所以我用别针一圈一圈地把领口系在带子上,until I had it very evenly eased and was hoping it wouldn't pleat under the band.I 必威app手机下载版sewed with the band side up to take advantage of the"蠕变from the presser foot.在这一点上,我真的不在乎带子的接缝在领口上的位置,只要它们不落在中心前面:picture-099.jpg

Voila!它奏效了!After 必威app手机下载版sewing on the band,我非常小心地将接缝余量修剪到一致的1/8英寸,which gave me a stable,均匀的边缘,在上面小心地把带子转到外面和顶部。不知何故,the band seams ended up symmetrically located–thank you god!!

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现在,for the hem.I've had a wonderful top-of-the line Bernina for 15 years and I had never purchased a narrow hemming foot!另一种窄边的问题(转弯和缝合,修剪、旋转和缝合)是指当你在精细的织物上围绕折边缝两次时,it almost always starts to flutter.

I've been anxious to have a garment to on which to try out my new hemming foot.我还使用了我在一条非常昂贵的设计师丝绸裙子上看到的一种技术(项目Myway 1)。裙子前面有窄边,裙子的后边很窄,然后缝合侧缝。必威app手机下载版If you're careful to have the side seams of the fronts and backs end at exactly the same place,这就不难理解,使用窄边脚的前半英寸折边看起来很糟糕,因为它隐藏在侧缝里。

新的脚很有挑战性!I went to the web to get some advice,我发现最好的是这篇文章:

http://www.sleepingbaby.net/jan/Baby/hemming.html

Jan Andrea,at Home on the Web.它有很好的图片和清晰的说明。即使有了这个很棒的教程,我仍然很难在折边上找到我的针脚。最后,我把我的单孔鞋底(我经常用在精细的织物上——防止织物被推到喉板上)换成了锯齿形喉板,并把针放在右边。This worked pretty well,尽管我还需要练习!:

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Conclusion,I love this top!I'm working on the jacket I featured in Spring Wardrobe '08 Part 1…

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…结果很好。当然,我找不到一个像上面的那一个那样明亮的图案,但是这件夹克配上那件黑色休闲裤的黄色上衣会很好看的!!

Ta-ta for now!!